From Buenos Aires we flew into La Paz, which is probably one of the most dramatic places to fly to in the world. You scrape over the andes and drop onto the edge of a high plateau, with La Paz spread out below. It is the highest capital in the world, at 3000 to 4100m, depending on which part you are in!
Sea-level to 4000m (whoops) unsurprisingly gave me altitude sickness in the form of mild headaches. This was when I began my relationship with Diamox, which makes your blood more acidic and increases respiration. Worked a treat.
Sadly we left La Paz and Bolivia pretty much straight away with our Gap tour, bound for Lake Titicaca and Peru. I'd like to go back and see more one day.
Lake Titicaca is a massive lake (the largest in South America), very high (the highest navigable lake in the world), and we spent a few days seeing it:
Visited Isla Taquile, which was pretty touristy, but quite spectacular. It is flourishing under tourism and a communist-style governing council.
Had a homestay on Luquina Chico, which was fantastic. We knew just enough Spanish to have really awkward conversations with our host family :) The kids Denis and Lucy were really cute and provided endless entertainment.
Visited the floating islands (Islas Uros), constructed using totora reeds that grow in the lake. The island platforms, boats, houses etc. are all constructed from the reeds. Super touristy, but interesting.
Saw Sillustani, the Inca and pre-inca cemetery near Puno. It was mildly interesting, but the highlight of the trip was a visit to a house on the way back that was pretty much a local zoo with lots of llamas, guinea pigs and other animals.
First stop in our South America adventure was Buenos Aires, the 'Paris of South America' - loved it.
Our cab driver opened his door while doing 150 km/h to check if the wheel was going to fall off because the car was shaking so violently. We also had the pleasure of driving down what is arguably the widest avenue in the world (18 lanes).
Visited Recoleta Cemetery, an exclusive place to be buried and the final resting place of Eva Perón. It is chock full of mausoleums that range from amazing monuments like mini churches with multiple levels, stained glass and statues, to decrepit tombs with coffins exposed to the elements. Wicked place to set a vampire movie.
Drank mate: not a fan. Tasted like someone made tea out of lawn clippings.
Ducked a bottle thrown in famously colourful neighbourhood of La Boca (home of Maradona). It was thrown by the rival soccer team fans who drove past in three buses while loads of police looked on holding their shotguns. The fans had also broken some of the windows in the buses. Can't imagine what they are like at the stadium...
Ran into Mafalda on a bench in the middle of San Telmo markets.
Had our first encounter of the South American way of eating - big lunch, small snack at about 6pm, and dinner at about 10pm. Lots of restaurants didn't open until 8pm, and we saw plenty of families out for dinner at 11pm on a school night.
After visiting The Lodge I decided we should also take the opportunity to tick off Government House, home of the Governor-General, from the 'things to do in Canberra' list. Compared with the PM, Quentin Bryce definitely has the better job, at least in terms of appearances on Masterchef, and definitely has the better house.
Government House is beautiful, with amazing gardens and great views out over Lake Burley Griffin. I learnt two things:
ER, the initials used by Queen Elizabeth, stand for Elizabeth Regina, where Regina means Queen in Latin.
Dieu Et Mon Droit on the royal coat of arms means "God and my right". It is in French, which I thought was fairly strange for the English monarch, but apparently is like that because French was the language of the Royal Court after the rule of William the Conqueror.
Quentin was wandering around the house talking to the great unwashed masses, which was nice. Sadly no photos allowed inside here either. The dining room (oval shaped room on the ground floor in the picture) is very impressive, and has a fantastic view out over the lake.
We went and checked out The Lodge on the weekend, home of our new PM. At the time she had spent all of four days living there (she didn't move in until after the election).
The house is surprisingly small and fairly unimpressive for the PM's residence. There are plenty of nicer houses around Yarralumla that are owned by people with piles of cash who aren't the Prime Minister. I can totally see why Howard opted for Kirribilli.
If you're reading Jules, I suggest getting rid of those horribly ugly floral print couches, they have Janette writen all over them, and get a new BBQ, the one you have got is rusty and worse than ours. Sadly we weren't allowed to take photos inside, but here is the BBQ.
The Lodge is in need of being replaced with something better. If I was PM I'd be embarrassed entertaining important guests there, but it will take a brave PM who is willing to wear the political flak of building a fancy new house for themselves. It will be a bit like spending a billion dollars on new parliament house, something no taxpayer wants you to do...
Stallman spoke well, and made a good case for free software - a movement he founded in 1983 that has since been taken up all over the world. I agreed with him that society would be better off with more FOSS, particularly in schools and government.
For schools I imagine parents would welcome not having to spend hundreds of dollars on Windows and MS Office for their home computers. But at the same time they may not be happy their kids haven't learned Windows and MS Office, which they are likely to need in the workforce (at least until FOSS is adopted there too).
I appreciated Stallman's history lesson of how GNU and Linux fit together, but he is fighting a losing battle to get people to call it GNU/Linux, even though GNU deserves at least half, and probably more, of the credit for modern Linux distros. Similar to hacker/cracker, I think we need to let this one go.
Spring! Time to join some other crazies and chase orange and white flags across the country.
The NSW spring 24 hr and 15-in-24 rogaine was set in the Abercrombie River National Park, about 2.5 hours north of Canberra. The terrain was fairly forgiving with light scrub, and thankfully the warnings about cliffs turned out to be a cut and paste error from a previous rogaine.
Unfortunately that wasn't the only problem. The rogaine organisers were the victim of a printing mistake that left off all the control numbers, so a significant amount of everyone's route planning time was spent in transcribing control numbers.
We planned two fairly ambitious routes, with a 9 hour sleep at the hash house in-between to satisfy the requirement of the 15-in-24. We did well with our first loop, and no nav problems until we hit 101, which took us ages to find, and 71, which took almost as long.
The slog along the fire trail and back up to the plateau and the hash house seemed to go forever, and, of course, took far longer than we thought it would. 10 hours when we were planning on 8...
We had a good meal, sleep, and were rearing to go the next morning on our condensed second loop. Unfortunately my knee didn't feel the same, and after a painful limp in the direction of 27 we gave up, turned back, and retired early. Oh well, next time...
How many times have you actually thought you are going to die? And I don't mean one day when you are old, but right now in a messy and spectacular way? I recently incremented my count from 0 to 1 on the now infamous Qantas Flight 74 from San Francisco to Sydney.
At 10:30pm on the 30 of August I boarded QF74 at San Francisco airport bound for Sydney. We took off at about 11pm and the first 30 min or so of the flight was totally uneventful. I was stoked that I had a whole row of three seats to myself, and had picked up a movie where I had left it on the flight over to the US three days ago. Things were going to change drastically in the next few minutes.
I felt a vibration and a rumble, which caused me to glance out the window to my right. At that moment the engine furthest out on the wing (number 4) exploded. There is no other word for it. It wasn't just a shower of sparks, it was an explosion - it is an amazing tribute to modern engineering that the engine casing can contain such an explosion. Well, mostly, as the photos below show.
To get some idea of what I'm talking about, take a look at some engine explosion tests on youtube - these are pretty close to what I saw. The plume of flame didn't extend out as far from the front of the engine, probably due to our airspeed. The light from the explosion lit up the whole wing (remember this was night time), and I'd estimate the flames extended about 10m back from the engine itself.
The flames continued for a few seconds - I imagine until fuel was cut off. Once the flames stopped, a continuous stream of sparks poured from the back of the engine. I looked around to see if anyone else had seen it. I was sure the wing had been damaged and we were about to plunge into the ocean. I got into the brace position (no kidding). Most people in the cabin were still completely unaware of what had happened.
Since we didn't seem to be dropping drastically in altitude I figured the wing must be reasonably OK, and at this point I was more worried that the pilots actually knew what had happened. Talking to other passengers afterward, we all had a feeling of helplessness at this point.
I think I said something like 'holy shit the engine just exploded', and other people in the cabin could tell by the expressions of those who were sitting on the right hand side of the plane, that something was wrong.
The woman across the aisle who was travelling alone asked if she could hold my hand.
The captain came on the PA and said there had been a problem with the number 4 engine. I can't remember exactly what he said, I was just glad he obviously knew what had happened. Shortly after a pilot (who I think was probably the first officer), came down and looked out at the engine from the exit row a couple of rows behind me.
Justin, who was on his honeymoon and sitting in the seat in front of me, had the presence of mind to pull out his camera and start recording. This is the footage you have probably seen in newsbulletinsalloverthe world - I told him to sell it and not give it away for free, so I hope he did :)
Kristen, whose hand I was holding, moved into the seat beside me and we watched the GPS track of the plane as the plane circled to dump fuel before returning to San Francisco. I think we spent around 45min dumping fuel, with sparks continuing to pour from the back of the engine. The plane was vibrating most of this time, which the captain explained was due to a change in aerodynamics caused by the failed engine.
I have to say the hosties and the captain were the picture of professionalism throughout the entire experience. The hosties were moving through the cabin reassuring people, and saying 'we can fly on one engine if we have to, nothing to worry about'.
Reactions in the cabin ranged from calm/denial, a woman opposite me went back to sleep(!), to fairly freaked out (Kristen), and everything in between. I was full of adrenaline, but reasonably calm, and beginning to wonder just how long this was going to make my trip home. There was plenty of Aussie bravado going around too - "it's only one engine", that kind of "that's not a knife, this is a knife" attitude that seems to be so ingrained in us somehow.
I found the utter calm and chirpy-ness of the hosties slightly disconcerting - would they be like that if we were about to die? But I realise they were just doing their job, and credit to them.
A cheer and a round of applause went up after we landed. I'm so glad the problems happened so early in the flight. I can't imagine having to watch sparks pour out of that engine for hours if it had happened in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. San Francisco to Sydney is one of the longest non-stop flights in the world, over a whole lot of ocean.
The fire trucks tailed us down the runway, and we held back from the terminal while a quick inspection of the engine was made. This didn't take too long, and we soon moved up to the gate.
We waited on the plane for a significant amount of time, probably about an hour, while cargo and baggage was unloaded. Balancing a 747 is apparently quite delicate - you need the weight of the passengers to hold the plane in place and stop it from tipping over as weight is removed from the body (cargo and baggage). I guess they must have been unloading differently to normal, or this was a lie, since I've gotten on and off plenty of planes and this is the first I have heard of the possibility of tipping over. The hosties couldn't leave their doors (some sort of emergency procedure I guess), so the captain told us we could help ourselves to drinks from the galley.
I estimate we got off the plane at about 3am, and it took another hour and a half before we got to the Hyatt, where Qantas was putting us up, via a hotel shuttle. By this stage we all knew each other quite well, and it was disappointing the hotel bar was shut, because most of us found it hard to get to sleep.
Qantas re-booked all our flights overnight, and by the afternoon of the next day everyone was on their way back to Sydney via LA. To add insult to injury: American Airlines was so slow at check-in I missed the first LA connection, the Australian Customs computer system was down - resulting in huge queues, Qantas lost my bags, and I missed my Australian domestic connection because I was waiting for my bags to show. What a ride.
The Qantas jet engine that exploded on Tuesday after take-off from San Francisco had not been inspected after safety warnings issued two weeks ago.
The safety bulletins in Australia, Europe and the US had warned of ''uncontained'' engine failure - the technical term for when components are sprayed out of the engine enclosure during a malfunction.
The airworthiness directives were issued for Rolls-Royce RB211 engines, the model fitted to the Qantas 747-400 that was forced to make an emergency landing at San Francisco.
So we might have cause to be angry at Qantas, if they knew about this problem and took no action. In terms of their response and handling of the situation once it had occurred, I really can't fault them. They also gave everyone on the flight a cash payment as compensation :)
I didn't know a hole had been punched in the engine until I read media reports days later, but while we were waiting on the ground I said to Justin that if there had been any shrapnel from the explosion, we would have been the ones who bought it first. Luckily the hole was punched on the other side of the engine.
I recently made a whirlwind trip to San Francisco, and caught up with some friends that have entered the smug cloud. We had lunch in the Haight, near where they live, which was fun.
Haight-Ashbury used to be the grungy alternative part of San Francisco, and although it has retained some of that feel, it now has a more touristy flavour. Still, there are heaps of bars, restaurants, and random wafts of pot smoke to be experienced.
I also spent a bit of time wandering around Golden Gate park. It is an amazing place, and a real treasure for those living in San Francisco. It is huge, bigger than Central Park in New York, and runs all the way from the Haight down to the Pacific Ocean. Flowers were in bloom, and people were walking, playing frisbee golf, and playing volleyball in the sunshine.
The next day we headed up to Lands End, which was really pretty. It reminded me a lot of the Monterey coastline - lots of pine trees and cliffs.
The camera obscura at the cliff house was surprisingly good. Light enters through the funny little pyramid on top, and is reflected and focused with a mirror and lens onto a concave table inside the structure. The result is a live, moving, colour picture of what is going on outside. It is actually a little creepy - we felt like sorcerers standing over a magic pool, or gods looking down on our minions.
For some reason, the Lands End conservationists thought it was a good idea to place little blue plastic flags everywhere that a seedling has been planted as part of their vegetation restoration effort. What the? Way to pollute the environment you are trying to save with a whole lot of plastic and rusty metal...
We walked around the Lands End trail to the California Palace of the Legion of Honor, which sounds like a war memorial, but is actually a beautiful French-style building containing an art gallery. While we were there a bunch of people were dancing what looked like the tango in the courtyard. I <3 San Francisco.
Many of the big technology players have their headquarters in silicon valley - Google, Apple, Intel, Cisco, HP, Adobe, Oracle etc.
The Google campus is pretty impressive, and feels a lot like a university campus (see here for a video tour). It was a beautiful day when I visited, and everyone was outside sitting at the picnic tables eating their free, tasty lunch.
There was even a cool sand sculpture outside a building where they had a 'beach' party a couple of nights ago. The campus is big enough that Google provides a whole fleet of bikes, in suitably primary google colours, for getting around. You can see these bikes propped up against pretty much every building in the area.
After checking out the campus I drove over to Palo Alto (home of Stanford University) for dinner. The town centre along University Ave. is one of the prettiest streets I have seen in the US. It is lined with bars, cafes, restaurants, and art galleries - kind of like Chapel St. in Melbourne but with more of a University feel.
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)
.jpg)