Monday, 7 May 2012

Toledo: Mazapán is not as bad as you think

On our way to Cordoba we stopped in at Toledo. It is known for (amongst other things, like knives) its mazapán, which tasted better than the marzipan I know from home - more almondy and less...gross. Toledo is a cute place, and apparently was the centre of Spanish arts and culture when it was under Muslim control in 711(!)

Of course there is a Catedral, an Alcázar, and a shitload of stroller-destroying-and-baby-shaking cobblestones: a pattern that would become very familiar. We parked outside town and walked in to avoid having to bend the car around medieval streets.

Fantastic view of the town from the other side of the river

Sunday, 6 May 2012

Madrid

After a rocky start things got a lot better and we had a good time in Madrid.

The Palacio Real (Royal Palace) was pretty impressive. Less impressive was that my sunglasses got stolen at the security checkpoint. Still, that was the only thing stolen the whole trip.


Had some excellent tapas, including my first taste of 'pulpo' (Galician style octopus), with jbm at Mercado de San Miguel. The food here was amazing. Em sat this one out since we thought the Spanish 'after 9pm' dinnertime was too late for E....oh how things changed :)

We spent quite a while wandering the huge Parque del Buen Retiro, this is the Palacio De Cristal, a greenhouse built in 1887.

After some debate about which museum to visit (there are lots) we ended up going to the famous Museo del Prado to get our Velázquez and Goya on. The collection was impressive but it made me thoroughly sick of paintings of Jesus and co.
We did the tour of Real Madrid's stomping ground, Santiago Bernabéu Stadium, which was actually really good. They have a large museum dedicated to the sporting club, which includes a number of sports other than soccer that I cared even less about. After we were bombarded by trophy cases we walked down to the field, sat on the player benches, and walked through the tunnel to the changerooms and showers.

Bernabeu
Some of the more ridiculous trophies
Team tourist
Vomitorios sound like they would be useful for a stadium that serves booze but the Internet tells me the translation is pretty much 'stadium entrance'


More great food: pintxo in La Latina. We defied the trendy standing-room-only crowd in Txakolina by dragging baby and stroller inside. Also happened to walk past the oldest restaurant in the world. Spain significantly shifted my perception of 'old'.

Sobrino de Botín: Goya's former employer and was apparently mentioned in a Hemingway novel.

Thursday, 3 May 2012

Not a great start: In-flight electrical fire and emergency landing

Two extra countries, one in-flight electrical fire, one emergency landing, one lost bag. Not the greatest flight ever, but still not the worst flying experience I've ever had.

We were supposed to be going from San Francisco to Madrid via Newark. Our SFO flight got delayed and we missed our Madrid connection despite heroic efforts on the part of the united air-crew. They asked for volunteers in premium economy to take our seats at the back of the plane just before landing to let us get off quickly, and 6 people kindly obliged to get all the Madrid-connectors up the front. We sprinted through Newark airport with baby and car seat, and with a Spanish guy carrying one of our bags, but still didn't make the flight.

After some dithering about whether to stay in NJ or keep going, we decided to keep flying to Madrid via London. Turns out that was a really bad decision.

About 2 hours into UA114 flight from Newark to Heathrow the in-flight entertainment system abruptly shut off. I had been smelling something strange for about a minute, and when I looked up I saw there was smoke in the cabin. Not thick smoke, but a definite haze. This immediately called to mind a conversation I'd once had with KC about how an in-flight fire is just about the worst thing that can happen on an airplane.

There was a cluster of people around one of the business class pods right up the front of the plane, and half the plane was prairie-dogging out of their seats. There was a series of announcements with no information like "the captain will be making an announcement shortly". A few people started crying and freaking out.

The captain, with the not-so-confidence-inspiring name of 'Snap', comes on the PA and tells us that we will be making an emergency landing in Goose Bay, Canada. Everyone pulls out their united flight maps, and sure enough, there is a Canadian military base in the middle of frickin nowhere. I was picturing a snow covered runway with a shed beside it, and we were getting really worried about how we would keep warm if we had to get off the plane. Turns out it is actually a pretty big airforce base, and the runway was very neatly ploughed, with 6 feet or more of snow stacked up on the side.


View Larger Map

After maybe 30 mins we land, everyone applauds, and we're trailed down the runway by fire engines and parked in a 'safe area', i.e. safe for the airport if the plane decides to catch on fire. Fireies do an outside inspection, and come in with, what I assume, was a thermal camera to look for hot spots that would indicate fire. I can't really see what is going on at the front of the plane, but it seems that whatever caused the smoke isn't burning anymore and disaster is averted.

At this point, and for the next 5 hours that we sat on the plane, people were in a glad-we-didn't-die state. A greek guy whipped out a guitar and started an impromptu concert, and a series of people come to ooh and ahh over how cute E is. She was an absolute trooper through all of this, and barely cried through what ended up being about a 30-hour plane journey.

In a moment of maximum irony the cabin staff had to replay the air safety video before we took off from Goose Bay, which included the United CEO talking about the $1b that United is spending on in-cabin renovations, including fancy new business class sleep pods...one of which had just caught fire.

We finally made it to Madrid to find one of our four checked bags missing, which was E's cot, but we did a lot better than the four others on the same set of flights who didn't get any bags. After some attempts to make a bed out of towels and blankets, E ended up sleeping in the bed with us, which has worked out surprisingly well.

I really hope I'm done with airline emergencies now.

Wednesday, 18 April 2012

Gig: Gotye and Missy Higgins @ Bill Graham Civic Auditorium San Francisco

Quick, take advantage of the grandparent babysitting and go to a concert! It just so happened that a great Aussie act was in town. Gotye's Somebody That I Used to Know has exploded all over the world, including the US, after grabbing the #1 spot in the Hottest 100 last year. It must be strange for an artist who is really well-known in their home country to tour other countries where the audiences only know one song. He played a great set, but it felt weird that big hits from his previous album like Hearts a Mess, didn't get much response from the crowd. But hey, I've been to plenty of concerts where I only knew one song, so I won't hold that against anyone. We missed Missy Higgins because we were drinking at Bourbon and Branch, but we've seen her plenty of times before. I did get the feeling that she was only there to fill in for Kimbra for a certain song...

The graphics for the stage were amazing. I wondered if Gotye's sample-heavy music would translate well to a live performance, but the band really reproduced the sound very well live. There was only one song where everyone put down instruments to just play samples. Check out the mass of cameras recording Somebody That I Used to Know. There was also a guy in the front row recording the whole thing on his iPad...

4.5 stars

Please Speak-Easy

Before Gotye, and after a horrendous peak hour drive into the city on the same day as a giants game, we managed to arrive in time for our reservation at Bourbon and Branch. Tough to get into on any day of the week, it's an actual prohibition era speakeasy that is now a super trendy cocktail bar.

http://thetender.us/2011/03/24/the-wilson-wilson-private-detective-agency/
Photo: thetender.us

We were there on a random wednesday and got a spot in the Wilson and Wilson bar, made out like a Chandler-esque detective agency with an array of alcohol that even Marlowe would be happy with.

Photo: thetender.us
Photo: thetender.us
Just entering the bar is a bit of an experience. You ring the doorbell outside an unmarked door in a fairly dodgy bit of the tenderloin, and give the woman who answers (in a flapper dress) the password for your reservation. You then walk through a set of hidden doors to reach the bar. The drinks are pricey, but not ridiculous, and each one is a work of art. I'd estimate each one I ordered had about 15 ingredients, almost none of which I had ever heard of, and were added to the drink from bottles, eyedroppers, and sprayed over the top (!?). The flavours were complex, as you can imagine, and I thoroughly enjoyed them. The house rules include 'no phones, no cameras' so I've borrowed pictures from thetender.us.

Photo: thetender.us

Saturday, 14 April 2012

Mt. Diablo

Lets drive up a big mountain. 1,100-ish metres vertical in the car, which is the easy way - there were a ton of people struggling up on bikes and getting cheered in by their friends at the top. A cyclist friend of mine says Diablo is shorter but steeper, and with a killer steep bit at the top, compared to it's neighbour Mt. Hamilton. You can also walk on a trail the whole way up, that would be fun to come back and do one day.

On the way up we stopped at Rock City and climbed around on the soft sandstone. So many people have done this that there is a indented ladder of holds all over the rock. We got some great views from the top, and on the way down we did a short hike from Curry point.


Friday, 13 April 2012

Air-accordion meets space taco

Gourmet food trucks, and lots of em, dished up their stuff in $2 tacos at the San Jose Taco Festival Of Innovation. Apparently all events in silicon valley need some sort of nerd clarion call - this one had a taco being launched into space, which supposedly justified the 'of innovation' title. The only evidence I saw of that was a half deflated weather balloon and this picture of something covered in cable ties. meh.
I think the drunk air-accordion championships were about the right level of class for the event. Chairman Bao wins coolest name and truck design by my reckoning. And I'd definitely get there early next time - gourmet might be tasty but it's slow, the lines were enormous.

Saturday, 7 April 2012

San Francisco Weekend

Friends visiting from Baltimore, an excuse to spend a weekend in the city. We had brunch at the Ferry building farmer's market.


Then took a long walk along the shoreline from Chrissy field to fort point with great views of the Golden Gate;


through the Presidio, the San Francisco National Cemetary, past the Yoda statue at Lucasfilm, and the impressive palace of fine arts.



Saturday, 31 March 2012

nyan nyan nyan

Well played emily, well played.


If cat, poptart, and rainbow seem unfamiliar to you I suggest watching this for all 100 hours. After that, there is a 571 hour version.

Friday, 30 March 2012

Silicon Valley Modern Home Tour

Silicon valley has the perfect mix of innovation culture and cashed up nerds that should produce some really interesting houses. With that in mind, Em got us on the 'Silicon Valley Modern Homes Tour', at $30/person along with my parents, who have an obsession with real-estate and have been known to go to open houses while on holiday.

We started out with the impressive $5M-ish 11885 Francemont Dr. in the Los Altos Hills, which would be perfect for a party with your 200 closest friends who all want to stay the night and have their own bathroom.



After that strong start, most of the other houses were disappointing (we visited all 8). The worst was one that wasn't even built, apart from a guesthouse, and they seemed to be trying to use this 'tour' to drum up interest for the sale. I doubt that the set of people who would pay to look at fancy houses intersects much with the set of people who can afford to buy said houses.

Having said that, I liked the Los Altos place that had just featured in Dwell magazine where the owner-architect was answering questions and his wife was baking brownies, and some of the cute Eichler's in Palo Alto and Sunnyvale. But my hands-down favourite was a place on Quince Ave. in Sunnyvale, an extensively renovated Eichler, which was the microsoft smarthome winner in 2008, and was just genuinely beautiful and livable. I had a long chat to the owner, who was involved in all the minutiae of the design and construction, and he walked me through the controls for the lights, heating, sonos music, and streaming video from the touchscreen in the kitchen.





I think the idea of this tour is great, but it would do well to drop any houses where there isn't anyone with a passion for the design present to answer questions, and especially those that are just realtors trying to drum up interest. It's pretty intrusive having a bunch of people tramp through your house, so a big thanks to those people who opened up their homes.